Taybeh: The West Bank's Christian Village and Its Ancient Roots
Perched in the hills north-east of Ramallah, Taybeh traces its history to the time of Christ. Today it is known for its churches, its brewery, and the pressures facing its small Christian community.
On a hilltop overlooking the Jordan Valley, about 15 kilometres north-east of Jerusalem, sits Taybeh, often described as the last entirely Christian village in the West Bank. It has a population of around 1,500 people, most belonging to the Greek Orthodox, Latin (Roman Catholic) and Melkite churches. Its history reaches back two thousand years.
Ephraim and the time of Christ
Christian tradition identifies Taybeh with the biblical town of Ephraim. The Gospel of John (11:54) records that Jesus withdrew there with his disciples before his final journey to Jerusalem. Ruins of a Byzantine church dedicated to Saint George, known locally as al-Khader, stand on the edge of the village, alongside later Crusader remains.
The village's name has its own legend: the Muslim leader Saladin is said to have renamed it Taybeh, meaning "good" or "kind", in appreciation of the hospitality of its people.
Beer and business
Taybeh became internationally known for something less ancient. In 1994, after the Oslo Accords, the Khoury family returned from the United States and founded the Taybeh Brewery, the first microbrewery in the Palestinian territories. Its beer is sold across the West Bank, in Israel and abroad. The village's Oktoberfest, held for many years, drew thousands of visitors, pilgrims and curious tourists.
A community under pressure
Taybeh's story is also the story of Palestinian Christians generally. Emigration has drained the population, as families leave for the Americas and Europe in search of work and security. Many more people originally from Taybeh now live abroad than in the village itself.
The villagers also face the pressures of occupation. Land is lost to settlements and their access roads, movement is restricted, and settlers have repeatedly attacked the village's farmland in recent years. Church leaders in Jerusalem have spoken out about attacks on Taybeh's land and property.
Why Taybeh matters
For pilgrims, Taybeh is a living link with the landscapes of the Gospels. For Palestinians, it is proof that Christian communities have been part of the land's fabric continuously for two millennia. For everyone, it is a reminder that the future of such communities is not guaranteed.